korean restaurant / 2015 travel bucket list selected by readers, Heuksando – 139

Chosen by Cheongsa-lantern readers

2015 travel bucket list, Heuksando

“Island” was a bucket list destination in 2015 that won the hearts of Cheongsa-lantern readers. The second protagonist is Heuksando, a deep black island at the southwestern tip of the Korean Peninsula.

Heuksando is far away. Mokpo, Jeollanam-do, is 93 km, and it takes 2 hours by express boat. It was named Heuksan Dora because the mountains and the sea look black when viewed from a distance. Nearby, islands such as Yeongsan, Daedundo, Damuldo, and Jangdo are surrounded by ice, and further away, islands such as Jodo, Jungtaedo, Hata Tae, Manjae-do, Hongdo, and Gagedo come together to form Heuksan.

Heuksando has a beautiful view from within the island. An island with a length of 8 km, a width of 4 km, and an area of 19.7 square kilometers (about 5.93 million square meters), it offers a variety of scenery that is hard to believe. The cheerful yet sad atmosphere, which has the charm of the East Sea, the West Sea, and the South Sea, is particularly impressive. If you stop at the endless scenery that unfolds uphill and downhill from time to time, you will notice that the sun is setting in the west.

Go around Heuksando along the coastal road

It's a good idea to explore Heuksando along the main coastal road. The direction of rotation doesn't matter. Whichever way you choose, the path is uphill from the beginning, and there is no big difference in the scenery. However, I recommend starting at Yeri Port (Heuksando Port), where the passenger ship terminal is located, and going around in a clockwise direction. This is to arrive at Sangla Mountain Observatory in time for the sunset. Sangla Mountain is a beautiful mountain at an altitude of 230 meters on the north side of Heuksando, and the sunset seen from here is one of the most unexplored sights.

Also, if you plan to walk or cycle around, the clockwise direction is better. This is because even on the same ascent, the counterclockwise direction is much more difficult, so you can lose ground from the beginning.

<사리마을 입구 언덕에서 보이는 칠형제바위>

If you take the first step in a clockwise direction and cross your head a couple of times, Cheongchon Village will appear first. “Cheongchon” is named after the forest surrounding the village is rich and green all year round. The people here usually make a living by fishing anchovies, but since there are no young people in the fortress, they save people from employment agencies on land and go out to fishing grounds. An eye-catching attraction is Gumunyeo Rock. There is a hole in the middle of the rocky island, and the sight of a stream of water pouring through the hole when the waves hit is spectacular.

If you leave Cheongchon-ri behind and go over a steep hill again, this time it's Cheonchon-ri. This is also famous as the place where Myeon-am Choi Ik-hyeon lived in exile. In the village, a monument honoring him and the words “Gibong Gangsan Hongmu Sun Moon (Gibong Gangsan Hongmu Sun Moon)” engraved on the rock while claiming the independence of Joseon remain to greet Gilson.

<천촌리에 남아있는 면암 최익현 선생의 흔적>

If you go about 1 km away from Choi Ik-hyeon's place of exile, Saetgae Beach is a cozy hideaway. From here, a long, high elevation path begins. Also, on the way down through a steep hill, there is Sari Village. This town, also known as “sand rice,” is significant as a place where Dasan Jeong Yung Yong's older brother, Son Am Jeong Yak Jeong Yak Jeong Yak Jeong, lived in exile and developed an “asset adventure.” “Jassan Abo” is a type of fish encyclopedia that researches and records fish from the Heuksando Primorye Sea. Sang-am completed it with the help of Heuksando residents.

<샛개해수욕장>

At the same time, Jeong Yak-jeon opened his cousin Seodang (Bok Sungjae) and taught children, and worked hard to train them after school. Seodang has now been restored on a hill at the back of the town. Underneath, there is a small Catholic church (a place of worship where priests do not reside), which has an elegant appearance.

If you go over one pass from Sari Village, it's a psychological village. Even though the pass is short, it is quite steep and steep. Perhaps because of that, the name is Han Da-ryeong (the head with lots of Han).

There is a park in Handa-ryeong to commemorate the opening of the main road. There is a statue of an angel with wings along with the completion monument on one side of the park, which is an image of Sinan-gun (the island of angels) to which Heuksan Province belongs. Psychological Village (Jipmi Village) was located in the deepest bay on the west coast of Heuksando.

<한다령고개 천사 조형물>

If you leave the village behind and keep moving along the main road, you will reach Heuksando's famous Sky Road. This path, which is connected by a long bridge without a pier along a coastal cliff, is named after the fact that it seems to float in the sky.

<하늘과 바다와 이어지는 듯한 아찔함을 주는 하늘도로>

After passing the Sky Road, Biri Village, which has a rock on the map, and Mari Village, where you can feel the spirit of Cheonma Mountain, comes out one after the other, followed by a long ascent leading up to Sangla Mountain Observatory. When I stand at the observation deck after meeting the song “Lady of Heuksando”, I am amazed at the panoramic view. The crooked head spreads out below your feet, and you can see Yeri Port in front of you.

If you go down the mountain while drawing twelve, you will pass through three-story pagodas and stone lanterns to reach the small backpacker beach. The Jinri Dang (Jinri Maiden Party), which soon appeared, is the main hall of 22 Seonghwangdang in Heuksan-myeon. There was a 300-year-old tree nearby that called for spirits, but now it has died, and only young trees remain to form a forest. Recently, the “Garden of the Gods” was created by combining Jinridang and this forest.

<진리당 (신들의 정원) >

It would be a pity to miss Heuksan Cathedral. Along with the island's folklore materials, it also has a museum where you can measure the spread of Catholicism. The statues and statues of Our Lady lined up at the entrance of the church are gorgeous.

After watching this far, Yeri Port reappears. If you're not pressed for time, you can stop by Jinri Jisokmyo-gun. It is the only Jisokmyo mausoleum identified in Heuksando so far and has been designated as Jeollanam-do Cultural Property No. 194. It is also the Jisokmyo mausoleum from the Bronze Age farthest from the mainland.

One point of tangy redfish and a cup of rice wine

If you come all the way to Heuksando and can't eat a single piece of redfish, it's a pity. It is commonly known that redfish is eaten only when it has been cut, but in Heuksando, fresh, uncut redfish is eaten a lot. Mokpo can now be reached in 2 hours, but it used to take much longer. Redfish caught near Heuksando gathered in Mokpo and sold all over the country, and leftover redfish sold in Mokpo headed to Yeongsanpo at the mouth of Yeongsan River. This is why they usually eat fresh redfish in Heuksando, medium-cut redfish in Mokpo, and soft-cut redfish in Yeongsanpo.

Still, the appeal of redfish lies in its “tangy” aroma and flavor. Everyone's likes and dislikes are clearly divided here. There are people who are fearful, and there are also people who are enthusiastic about redfish that is so deep that the roof of their mouth is peeled off. The unique scent of redfish is due to the elements. Animals release waste products, or elements, through their pee, and redfish send them to their skin. Elements that have passed into the skin ferment with ammonia, which kills germs. While moving from far sea to shore, redfish were bound to spoil, and even so, there was no harm in eating them because there were no germs.

<묵은지와 홍어, 그리고 전복이 더해진 홍어삼합에 사리마을 막걸리를 더했다>

November and December are mating seasons for redfish. The fertilized eggs become young redfish after three months. Redfish that grow to a body of about 12 to 16 cm in the first year are 20 to 40 cm tall after 2 to 3 years. After 5 to 6 years, it becomes an adult that is over 1.5 meters tall. This well-bred redfish is called “number one.”

It is said that female is female, and male is a shame. The difference between the two is a dick on either side of the tail. Because it tastes good and is expensive, it is treated even more pricey. There is a story where workers pretended they hadn't seen it even if they cut it off as a snack for soju because they couldn't tell it apart from the sea bass if they just cut it off. This is where the phrase “enough is a redfish's dick” came into being.

<홍어 잡는 건주낙을 손질 중인 어부>

< The redfish auctioned in Heuksando has a bar code attached to it. Along with information on redfish, you can find out when, where, and who caught it >

After all, the highest peak of a redfish is “Amchi No. 1.” This refers to a redfish that weighs 8.25 kg or more. This is the best product and is the standard for the market price of Heuksando red fish. When it's expensive, it can cost close to 1 million won per animal. After that, you'll be treated to two male herds, which weigh 7.25 kg or more. There's only a difference of about 1 kg, but the price goes up to 100,000 won. Fishermen say with their mouths that it means that a red fish that weighs 8 kg or more is just as tasty. Every redfish auctioned in Heuksando is followed by a bar code. If you take a picture of a barcode, you can see who caught it. It is most expensive during the holidays and in the middle of winter.

<홍탁이라고 이름 붙을 정도로 홍어는 탁주와 잘 어울린다>

A redfish has nothing to throw away, from its tangy nose to its wings that it chewes and its body, which is usually called lean meat. The famous red fish roe is eaten not only by dissolving barley shoots and miso paste, but also dipping it in oil sauce when it is fresh. The season is from winter to the name spring. Among them, redfish that has been properly drained of water after about ten days is the most filling and delicious. Adding a cool cup of makgeolli to this is a real icing on the cake.

Heuksando Travel Information

1. The way to find it

• There are express trains from Mokpo Coastal Passenger Terminal to Heuksando 4 times a day (7:50, 8:10, 13:00, and 15:30). It takes 2 hours. The price is 34,300 won for adults, 31,100 won for young people, 17,100 won for children (24 months and over), and 207,800 won for people aged 65 and over. Inquiry 1666-0910

• Since departure is determined by weather, it is essential to check the weather before departure. Heuksando Weather Station 061-275-2754

2. Local traffic

• It is economical to take a sightseeing taxi or tour bus. The bus runs for 1 hour 30 minutes and costs 15,000 won per person. Reservations are required. You can use it on site for a fee only if there is a vacant seat.

Inquiries and reservations: Kim Sang-sang (Hana Express) 010-3637-2066, Heuksan Beach (Hana Express) 061-246-0090, Park Jae-doo (Rami Express) 010-2535-5555, Lee Sang-su (Rami Express) 010-3644-9776

• A taxi costs 60,000 won for a 2-hour tour for 4 people. Up to 6 people can board, and an additional 10,000 won per person is required. They usually wait in time for the boat around Yeri Port, but it's a good idea to make a reservation in advance from April to October, when there are many tourists.

Inquiries and reservations: Seong-hwan Seong-hwan 010-9030-2921, Park Bok-gwang 010-4631-9473, Kim Tae-sik 017-228-3703

• You can also take your own car on a passenger ship and explore every corner freely. However, it's only available every Tuesday and Friday at 7 a.m., and it's quite expensive (137,600 won each way for 2 people including the driver in a light car). Furthermore, the speed is slower than the rapid train, so it takes 4 hours to get to Heuksando. From Heuksando to Mokpo, you can take a boat that departs every Tuesday and Friday at 13:30. Contact Namhae Express Deputy General Manager Kim Dae-yoon 010-2468-8323

• There is a gas station (061-246-5151) next to Nonghyup near Yeri Port. There are no LPG charging stations. As there are many climbs, the descents are steep and long, so be careful when speeding.

• There are no car rental companies.

3. restaurant

Gwangju sashimi restaurant 061-246-3729

Geumseong Sashimi Collection 061-246-3801

Sungwoo Jeong Hall 061-275-9101

Youngsaeng Restaurant 061-275-7978

Gae Town Party Restaurant 061-246-4110

Hwaseong Fish Sashimi Restaurant 061-275-9602

4. Lodging

Heuksan Beach Hotel/ Jinri, Heuksan-myeon, 061-246-0090/ 110,000 won to 320,000 won (including meals)

Gaecheong/ Yeri, Heuksan-myeon, 061-275-9154/30,000 won to 100,000 won

Dongil Bed and Breakfast (Dongil Fisheries)/Yeri, Heuksan-myeon, 061-275-9146/50,000 won for 4 people

Namdo Bed and Breakfast/ Yeri, Heuksan-myeon, 061-275-9621/ 40,000 won for 4 people

Wharf Bed and Breakfast/ Sari, Heuksan-myeon, 061-246-3587/ 30,000 won for 4 people

5. Tourist inquiries

Heuksan-myeon Office Tourism Promotion Section 061-240-3802

Heuksan-myeon Tourist Information Center 061-240-8520

Sinan-gun Tourist Information Center 061-240-8531

Yeri Port (Heuksando Port) Passenger Ship Terminal 061-275-9323

Mokpo Coastal Passenger Ship Terminal 061-240-6060